In 2015, Oris released a watch that would become (arguably) their most significant release of the decade. It was a 40mm skin-diver watch with a steel case, rubber strap, black bezel and a particularly funky set of dial numerals. That watch was, of course, the original Divers Sixty-Five, and from this humble beginning, it became an expansive collection that perfectly captured the zeitgeist around nostalgic neo-vintage dive watches. Of course, the Sixty-Five itself is inspired by Oris’ first dive watch, released in 1965, a design that did more than just inspire the design of the current generation — it gave it its name. Over the last decade, the Sixty-Five grew to incorporate bronze cases, chronographs, the new Calibre 400 movement and, of course, lots and lots of dial variations.

Today, we’re wending our way closer to the 60th anniversary of Oris’ debut diver, and the brand has taken the opportunity to redefine the watch that we’ve known as the Sixty-Five.

Say hello to the Divers Date

Here’s a watch that, on the surface, looks and feels much like everyone’s beloved Sixty-Five but is, in effect a meaningful update ensuring it remains relevant for years to come. In the first half of the last decade, the appetite for nostalgia was huge. I swear, there was scarcely a watch released that didn’t use luminous material inspired by the colour of old radium, and have dial options in some shade of tropical. The Sixty-Five fit perfectly into this milieu. It offered the right mix of heritage appeal and credibility, combined with Oris’ legendary value proposition. But the times, as Bob Dylan sang one year before Oris released their original diver, they are a-changin’. Today, our appetites lean less towards full-on retro-reissue, and broadly speaking, the market favours a lighter touch when it comes to heritage.

Which is exactly what the Divers Date delivers. There’s plenty of iconic design codes in this new watch — the handset, the colours, the bezel and the overall silhouette are all inspired by the past, and the riveted steel bracelet definitely is. But none of these elements add up to a watch that is living in the past. But what’s remarkable is how much the watch has changed. In small, substantial, and meaningful changes.

The case is 39mm and has been significantly reworked with a more confident profile and mature lines. Water resistance is up too — the watch is now rated to 200m, hopefully putting an end to the grumbling few who complained that 100m wasn’t enough. Fundamentally, the watch case feels a little thicker and more substantial. The dial is fundamentally the same design but cleaned up — there’s less text at the bottom of the dial, and the layout is neater. This is the most obvious change on the dial, but there are others.

The applied hour markers have been tweaked, for example, with bevelled edges that give them an elevated appearance. Tweaked and elevated are consistent themes across the board. It’s hard to see an aspect of the design that doesn’t look more sophisticated than its predecessor while still managing to capture the charm and spirit of what made the Sixty-Five so successful, which is no mean feat. The debut choice of colours is on point, too — blue, black and beige are a classic trio, but the particular hues Oris has opted for have a bit of personality.

Oddly enough, all this care and thought comes together on the bracelet. In terms of an everyday wearing experience, a bracelet is make or break and often gets less attention than it deserves. The previous iteration of the bracelet was solid, comfortable, and with nice rivet details. This one is better, not least because you get steel and rubber in the box. However, the steel bracelet has been significantly improved, the springbars are now a quick change system, and the clasp is more stable. However, it’s what Oris has done to the stylised rivet detailing that really improves the game. The riveted pieces are more distinct, with a high polish and thicker profile, but at the same time, they are more integrated into the bracelet as a whole. It’s a substantial change that feels modern but really pays tribute to the history of Oris’ divers.

For the last 10 years, the Divers Sixty-Five dominated its segment, offering top-notch dive watches that delivered on Oris’ mission to make people smile. I have no doubt that the Divers Date will do exactly the same over the coming decade.

Tech Specs: Oris Divers Date

Movement: Automatic-winding Oris 733; 41-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 39mm; stainless steel; water-resistant to 200m
Dial: Black, blue or beige
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with quick-change system and additional rubber strap
Price and availability: CHF 2,450