Today, Bvlgari’s Tubogas stands out as one of the most distinctive designs in contemporary jewelry. It is a signature, sinuous technique that was the star of the show at the recent unveiling of a new collection in New York. For all its high jewellery splendour, Tubogas has an unlikely origin story — one that’s baked into the name.

Bvlgari’s Tubogas style — made from supple coils of precious metal — first appeared in 1948 as the bracelet of the very first Serpenti jewelry-watch. And while the fluid, rope-like technique is a perfect fit for the curves of a snake-like body, the inspiration is far more utilitarian. In the early half of the last century, pressurised gas was moved from place to place via pressurised articulating tubes — a product of the industrial age that eventually found its way into the repertoire of jewelers inspired by the novelty of mass production and industrial design. By the 1970s, Tubogas, as it came to be known, had become firmly ensconced as a Bvlgari motif — the interlocking, unsoldered stripes showed up across the house’s many creations, becoming a mainstay of the brand’s contemporary style.

That style is very much on display with the reintroduction of the Tubogas collection, an ode not just to Tubogas, but to the timeless allure of yellow gold. Bvlgari has launched 16 new references in the line, from regular catalog pieces, to high jewelry creations. The collection leans strongly to necklaces and bracelets, but also includes a ring and a single, stunning watch.

Hailing from the Bvlgari Bvlgari line, the 21mm yellow gold watch boasts a remarkable Tubogas double loop bracelet consisting of not one, but three strands of Tubogas in white gold, 3N gold and yellow gold, making for a precious trinity weighing in at 134.2 grams, and accented by diamond hour markers on the glossy black dial of the watch. It’s a strikingly opulent design perfectly.

Another noteworthy new interpretation of Tubogas is a trio of necklaces that incorporate Bvlgari’s Parentesi design — evoking the patterns of Roman pavements. Here the Tubogas necklace is centered around a coloured stone — there’s tanzanite, rubellite and green tourmaline versions, framed by geometric hard stones and pavé diamonds. The form of the Tubogas itself has also been subtly reworked for these pieces, with a triangular profile adding volume and a more dynamic look.

The world of Tubogas will be explored through the imaginative lens of multi-disciplinary artist Antoni Tudisco, who has joined the Bvlgari Studio to create a campaign exploring the elegance of style of Tubogas, where the flowing metals take a metaphysical twist that celebrates the modernity of Tubogas.