Jaeger-LeCoultre, as a 191-year-old institution, has an unparalleled legacy, having crafted over 1,400 calibers and securing more than 430 patents. Yet, for all its technical brilliance and history, there was one missing piece in the puzzle: a dedicated program that would allow collectors and enthusiasts to own a slice of this storied past. That changed with the launch of The Collectibles program in 2023, presenting a bold initiative to bring vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces back to life.

Spearheading the effort is Matthieu Sauret, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Product Marketing & Heritage Director, who describes Jaeger-LeCoultre The Collectibles as more than just a project. “We felt we were missing a collector’s book, something that encapsulated the most collectible watches we’ve ever created,” he said. “From that idea, The Collectibles program was born.”

This initiative showcases a curated selection of 17 rare and iconic timepieces, each representing significant milestones in both Jaeger-LeCoultre’s storied legacy and the evolution of 20th-century watchmaking. The collection will continuously expand, with pieces available for purchase through the Jaeger-LeCoultre website and displayed in exclusive capsule collections. The third capsule, comprising just 10 pieces, will be launched in Singapore at the Marina Bay Sands boutique from October 13th to 23rd.

Register for a private viewing here: Jaeger-LeCoultre – Atelier – THE COLLECTIBLES 

Ahead of the launch event, Revolution’s Editor-at-Large, Eléonor Picciotto, sits down with Sauret as they walk through the making of Jaeger-LeCoultre The Collectibles program. 

The Birth of a Collectible Legacy

An anthology of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most collectible timepieces was merely the beginning. As Sauret and his team researched, they realized that merely documenting these watches wasn’t enough. They wanted to offer collectors the opportunity to own these pieces, not just read about them. “The idea took on a life of its own. We decided to source these vintage pieces, restore them, and make them available for sale,” says Sauret.

Eléonor Picciotto: Who can buy the timepieces in Jaeger-LeCoultre The Collectibles and where can I find them?

Matthieu Sauret: Each year, we acquire several watches for our museum collection. Through this process, we often come across rare pieces that are difficult to find, and we offer these for sale to our clients. Typically, we source about 10 watches per capsule. 

What we do is refurbish these watches, capturing them in videos and photos for our records, before offering them for sale. This time, the watches will be available at a boutique in Singapore, but they’re also listed online on our website. This approach allows us to reach not just local clients but also collectors around the world.

If you’re interested in any of these pieces, you can connect with a boutique anywhere in the world or apply via our website. A representative will then arrange a digital or physical presentation of the watches, depending on your location. Given the rarity of these timepieces, we’ve experienced overwhelming demand with our first two capsules, so there may be a waiting list for certain references.

EP: Is it true then that some people may have to wait after 10 capsules just to get to the reference that they were looking for?

MS: I hope we can find a few more watches, but some of them are over 90 years old and incredibly rare. We always aim to source museum-quality pieces — truly exceptional, almost untouched, and unpolished. This makes them very difficult to find, but when we do come across this level of quality, we’re able to offer them for sale.

EP: And how did you narrow down to this particular number of 17 timepieces qualifying to be a part of The Collectibles?

MS: This was quite a challenging task. We had a long list to work through, and we narrowed it down based on three key criteria. First, watchmaking pedigree, which is crucial because, at Jaeger-LeCoultre, being a “watchmaker of watchmakers” means that heritage is essential. Second, a singular history, meaning these pieces have made a significant mark on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legacy and on watchmaking as a whole. Finally, a differentiating design that sets them apart.

We weren’t aiming for a selection of 10 or 20 pieces; instead, we landed on 17, which we felt truly represented Jaeger-LeCoultre’s impact during the Golden Age of fine wristwatch making, from the 1930s to the 1970s. This period, before the advent of computers, allowed Jaeger-LeCoultre to fully explore its long history of caliber-making, leading to innovative designs and complications.

The Restoration Process

EP: What are the challenges when you finally acquire a piece? What’s the biggest difficulty after that?

MS: I believe that people who buy watches are always eager to hear about the journey behind each piece. Discovering these watches is an adventure in itself, and every time we come across something incredible, we strive to acquire it, sometimes from the other side of the world. 

Then comes the restoration process, which is something I really want to highlight. We take great care to preserve the originality of the watch. We hardly touch the case or the dial and hands, replacing only as many external components as necessary. We don’t repolish the case, ensuring that it remains in its perfect, authentic state, just as it should have naturally evolved. By avoiding polishing or reversing any part of the watch, we make sure the original design stays intact and unaltered.

EP: When people think “refurbishing”, they always assume it’s about making the watch cleaner, i.e. how the watch looked when it first came out of the manufacture. But what does it really consist of?

MS: The majority of our work focuses on the caliber. What’s great about this program is that almost all the calibers in these watches originate from here. Not only are they assembled here, but every part is made here, and in most cases, they are designed here as well. We hold nearly every industrial design, plan, and patent that covers the creation of these calibers.

For a watch that’s 90 years old and shows signs of wear in some parts of the caliber, we’re able to remake and replace any components that need it. We fully dismantle, clean, and engineer new parts for the caliber, giving the watch new life without altering its outer shell. This way, the original design remains untouched, and we don’t transform something vintage into something new. The natural patina adds character and value to the design, preserving its authenticity.

EP: How is the price of the watch affected when it goes through The Collectibles program?

MS: We have a large network of merchants and sellers in the watchmaking industry, and every year, we purchase watches for our museum to preserve them for conservation purposes. We typically acquire these watches from our trusted merchants. This allows us to obtain pieces that eventually become part of our The Collectibles collection. We price these watches based on the level of refurbishment they require, although major repairs to the caliber are rarely necessary. We also track the market quotations for these watches to ensure fair pricing.

Only a dozen or so watches are purchased each year, and they are carefully vetted by our experts and watchmakers. 

We don’t repolish the case, ensuring that it remains in its perfect, authentic state, just as it should have naturally evolved. By avoiding polishing or reversing any part of the watch, we make sure the original design stays intact and unaltered.

EP: If I have a vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre, can I enter it into The Collectibles program or can I get it refurbished? 

MS: Of course, we offer refurbishment services. After launching The Collectibles program, we saw a significant increase in the number of people coming to have their watches refurbished. However, we typically don’t purchase from individuals due to certain legal constraints, as we’re a large institution. But if you’re looking to sell, I always recommend reaching out to reputable auction houses.

Interestingly, through this program, it’s becoming more difficult for us to acquire watches. Not only have prices gone up, but owners are now more knowledgeable about their watches’ history. As a result, many are choosing to hold on to them rather than sell, which is exactly what we wanted to achieve. It’s made the market more competitive, but that’s a good thing. This program has been about educating people on the incredible craftsmanship behind these timepieces, which are truly one of a kind, especially given the limited production.

“The ultimate goal of the The Collectibles program is to maintain this incredible heritage and share it with the world,” Sauret concludes. As Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to delve into its archives, collectors can look forward to more rare and exceptional timepieces finding their way back into the spotlight, each one embodying the brand’s enduring legacy.

The public in Singapore can book a private viewing of the capsule collection at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique in Marina Bay Sands from October 13 to 23, 2024. Secure your appointment in advance via the link here: Jaeger-LeCoultre – Atelier – THE COLLECTIBLES